THE OVERCOAT
A coat created by a Scottish family business that dates back to 1772 may be an unlikely
style totem for Teddy boys, mods and skinheads. But in its various guises the Crombie,
as it was affectionately called, became as much part of their considered and particular
uniforms as certain polo shirts or shoes.
Overcoat - usually extend below the knee (made from heavier cloth or fur, because overcoats
are more commonly used in winter when warmth is more important)
Topcoat - short coats that end at or above the knees ( topcoats are usually made from lighter
weight cloth such as gabardine or covert)
Topcoats and overcoats together are known as outercoats.
(Then you also have the greatcoat, redingote, frock overcoat, ulster coat, inverness coat,
paletot coat,paddock coat, chesterfield coat..but there is no time to go into details of each one..
Salvador Dalí |
Salvador Dalí arriving in London in 1955, wearing a double-breasted Chesterfield-style and
waxed moustache (we love the moustache!)
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The coat as we know it today was 'created' by John Crombie in 1805, who had the original
idea of selling quality cloths not only to merchants but direct to tailors.
The Crombie's reputation for fending off the big freeze also won it military contracts - a
sure stamp of approval. Coats were supplied to the French and British during the WWI.
By the 1930 however, heated interiors and travel by car meant very heavy fabrics were no
longer needed, and lighter-weight versions of the Crombie were developed.The coat became
an undisputed part of the male wardrobe, to some extent because it was favoured by the liked
of Edward, Prince of Wales, as well as Winston Churchill,Frank Sinatra and the US
presidents Dwight D. Eisenhover and John F. Kennedy.The fact that it was considered the
stuff for officers, gentry and power brokers only reinforced the perception that a Crombie was
a coat for the upper class.
This was a perception that style movements from the 1950s onwards subvertedby making
the coat their own - the Crombie has been the coat of statesmanu and gangsters alike!
Frank Sinatra |
Frank Sinatra arrives at London airport in 1956, prepared for the cold
Gary Cooper with a dapper, peak-lapel overcoat and the up-and-coming Mexican
actress Lupe Velez in 1929, fuelling rumours that the couple were engaged.
ohn F. Kennedy and US President General Dwight D.Eisenhower
|
The US President-elect John F. Kennedy and US President General Dwight D.
Eisenhower leave the White House in Washington for Capitol Hill for Kennedy's
inauguration ceremony in 1961
I guess you are kinda tired now..I'll leave you with some present day street stye
overcots:
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